Augh! My flash drive, where I keep my entire folder of pasta, is fucked up! The story I was typing is no longer accessable! Sorry about not explaining sooner.
But seriously.... Once this is sorted out, I'll get back to pasta.
No, I haven't thought of backing it up, because the flash drive has seemed reliable enough before. I guess I WILL have to back it up now... I might just use an Imageshack or Tinypic account...
A patch kit (a few different patch sizes, sandpaper or a metal scraper, and a tube of glue), a set of tire levers, and an air pump. With the wheel removed from your bike, inspect the outer ICAbike01 surface of the tire to make sure there are no sharp objects like a thumb-tack or thorn stuck in the tread. Remove Tir Remove the valve cap and fully deflate the[url=http://www.icarbonsports.com/products/wheels-rims/carbon-bike-rims/]carbon fiber rims[/url]tube by depressing the valve stem with the hooked end of your tire lever. There are two main types of valve stems, a schrader valve and a presta valve. This tutorial is based on a schrader valve, but I will be covering the different valve types in another tutorial. Now it’s time to remove your tire, one side at a time. Choose a section of tire that is away from the valve and hook one of the tire levers under the bead, directly in line with one of your spokes. Pry one side of the tire bead over the edge of the rim, and then hook the end of the tire lever to the nearest spoke. Insert another tire lever two spokes away from the first, and a third another two spokes away. Now the middle lever should fall out, and you can continue the process. When the tire is loose enough you can just run a tire lever around the rest of the rim to pull the whole side over. After you have removed one side of the tire, the other side should come off very easily. Inspect Tube Now remove the tube from the tire, and try to keep track of where itICAbike01 was positioned in relation to the tire. Inflate the tube to approximately twice its original size. This will expand the hole making it easier to find. Listen carefully to the entire circumference[url=http://www.icarbonsports.com/products/wheels-rims/carbon-bike-rims/]carbon bike rims[/url]of the tube; you should hear a hissing sound that will indicate where the leak is. As a last resort you can submerge the tube in water and watch for bubbles, but you’ll want to avoid doing this as you’ll need the tube to be completely dry in order for the patch glue to work. Once you’ve found the leak, take note of whether it is on the inner or outer side of the tube. If the hole was on the outer side of the tube, inspect the inner surface of the tire in that spot to make sure the object that caused the puncture is not still stuck in the tire. Double check the entire inner side of the tire by running your fingers along the entire surface, feeling for obstacles along the way. If the hole was on the inner side of the tube,[url=http://www.icarbonsports.com/products/wheels-rims/carbon-bike-rims/]carbon bicycle rims[/url]inspect your entire rim to make sure there are no sharp burrs in the metal, and that the rim tape is properly protecting the tube from your spoke ends. Now that the rim and tire are clear, it’s time to patch the tube. [url=http://www.icarbonsports.com/]zipp 404[/url]Select an appropriate sized patch for the hole. Use the sandpaper or scraper provided in your kit to buff the surface of the tube for an area a bit larger than the patch. You need to buff the tube so that it is no longer shiny. If the molding line is running along the area where the patch is to be applied, you must sand it down completely, or it will provide an air channel. Once buffed, avoid touching that area with your fingers. Apply a dab of rubber cement, and then spread it into a thin coat, using your cleanest finger. Work quickly. You want a thin, smooth coat of cement; if you keep fiddling with it as it begins to dry, you’ll risk making it lumpy. The thinner the cement, the faster it will dry. It is very important to allow the cement to dry completely. Peel the foil from the patch and press the patch onto the tube firmly, squeezing the patch tightly onto the tube.
sorry to hear that, i supose i would have to wait more
ReplyDeletedid you ever get the one I sent you?
ReplyDeleteD:
ReplyDeleteThat sucks. Hope it all works out.
ReplyDeleteThis is the most terrifying story on the entire website.
ReplyDeleteWell I won't be sleeping tonight.
ReplyDeleteSad day! Sorry to hear about your trouble!
ReplyDeleteAw! Well, here's hoping things get fixed soon.
ReplyDeleteEver thought of backing them up online, say to a gmail account?
ReplyDeleteI guess I better get started on an arsenal of creepypasta. ALRIGHT LADIES AND GENTS, WE NEED TO FORM A THINKTANK.
ReplyDeleteDamn!!! that sucks i love this blog
ReplyDeleteNo, I haven't thought of backing it up, because the flash drive has seemed reliable enough before. I guess I WILL have to back it up now... I might just use an Imageshack or Tinypic account...
ReplyDeleteLol I was the one who came up with the story drought term back on the Fall Out story...
ReplyDeleteI have been reading your blog while at work now, and enjoy it. Thank you for taking the time to find new stories for us to read.
A patch kit (a few different patch sizes, sandpaper or a metal scraper, and a tube of glue), a set of tire levers, and an air pump.
ReplyDeleteWith the wheel removed from your bike, inspect the outer ICAbike01 surface of the tire to make sure there are no sharp objects like a thumb-tack or thorn stuck in the tread.
Remove Tir
Remove the valve cap and fully deflate the[url=http://www.icarbonsports.com/products/wheels-rims/carbon-bike-rims/]carbon fiber rims[/url]tube by depressing the valve stem with the hooked end of your tire lever. There are two main types of valve stems, a schrader valve and a presta valve. This tutorial is based on a schrader valve, but I will be covering the different valve types in another tutorial.
Now it’s time to remove your tire, one side at a time. Choose a section of tire that is away from the valve and hook one of the tire levers under the bead, directly in line with one of your spokes. Pry one side of the tire bead over the edge of the rim, and then hook the end of the tire lever to the nearest spoke. Insert another tire lever two spokes away from the first, and a third another two spokes away. Now the middle lever should fall out, and you can continue the process. When the tire is loose enough you can just run a tire lever around the rest of the rim to pull the whole side over.
After you have removed one side of the tire, the other side should come off very easily.
Inspect Tube
Now remove the tube from the tire, and try to keep track of where itICAbike01 was positioned in relation to the tire. Inflate the tube to approximately twice its original size. This will expand the hole making it easier to find.
Listen carefully to the entire circumference[url=http://www.icarbonsports.com/products/wheels-rims/carbon-bike-rims/]carbon bike rims[/url]of the tube; you should hear a hissing sound that will indicate where the leak is. As a last resort you can submerge the tube in water and watch for bubbles, but you’ll want to avoid doing this as you’ll need the tube to be completely dry in order for the patch glue to work.
Once you’ve found the leak, take note of whether it is on the inner or outer side of the tube.
If the hole was on the outer side of the tube, inspect the inner surface of the tire in that spot to make sure the object that caused the puncture is not still stuck in the tire. Double check the entire inner side of the tire by running your fingers along the entire surface, feeling for obstacles along the way.
If the hole was on the inner side of the tube,[url=http://www.icarbonsports.com/products/wheels-rims/carbon-bike-rims/]carbon bicycle rims[/url]inspect your entire rim to make sure there are no sharp burrs in the metal, and that the rim tape is properly protecting the tube from your spoke ends.
Now that the rim and tire are clear, it’s time to patch the tube. [url=http://www.icarbonsports.com/]zipp 404[/url]Select an appropriate sized patch for the hole. Use the sandpaper or scraper provided in your kit to buff the surface of the tube for an area a bit larger than the patch. You need to buff the tube so that it is no longer shiny. If the molding line is running along the area where the patch is to be applied, you must sand it down completely, or it will provide an air channel. Once buffed, avoid touching that area with your fingers.
Apply a dab of rubber cement, and then spread it into a thin coat, using your cleanest finger. Work quickly. You want a thin, smooth coat of cement; if you keep fiddling with it as it begins to dry, you’ll risk making it lumpy. The thinner the cement, the faster it will dry. It is very important to allow the cement to dry completely.
Peel the foil from the patch and press the patch onto the tube firmly, squeezing the patch tightly onto the tube.