The scream of the trooper was horrifying. He was twisting on the floor and screaming for the sweet release of death. There was nothing I could do. The cause of this suffering was as clear as his scream: he was corrupted.
And, unfortunately, so was I.
But there was a difference: I was corrupted, but protected. But it was growing. Growing, eating me from the inside. I had to hide my face; it had changed. I couldn't recognize it anymore. This corruption, this fatal illness has been around for years. I wasn't the only one, though. It took my friends, too. But now I'm alone. Alone with this condition, this fever. It doesn't have a cure, it will kill me someday.
But before that, I must fight it. I must fight it because I'm the only one that can stop this. All my other friends...they are gone. It took them. That thing...it's an exact copy of me. It knows my moves, it knows my weaknesses, it knows me.
But now, I must face it, even if it kills me. It will kill me, anyway. It took the other bounty hunters. It will do the same with me. This feeling of dread, the feeling of impending doom. The feeling of no escape.
I must, for I am the bounty huntress, Samus Aran.
(This story is credited to a person called DarkMartio)
That's real good! But I would've liked it better if you didn't end saying 'I'm samus aran' Maybe you could've made it a bit longer before doing that? idk
ReplyDeleteThen a motherbrain popped out.
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Sounds interesting. Too bad I don't remember that happening in any of the Metroid games.
ReplyDeleteThis is from metroid fusion.
ReplyDeleteA parasitic germ got into her suit, nearly killing her, stole her DNA, and mode copies of her.
Just use the Hammer, and don't let him jump on your sword.
ReplyDeleteYes This was from one of the Metroid Games. It wiped out my favorite chara that only lasted aboout 1.5/4 of the game. And I hate Dark Samus for it. But he is still kool :3
ReplyDeleteWhat? No, it's not Metroid Fusion, it's Metroid Prime 3.
ReplyDelete^ Seems sort of like both, though i'm unsure if its specific or not. it mentions other bounty hunters like in Prime 3. But it also mentions a clone like in Fusion. I thought it was pretty retarded either way.
ReplyDeleteThere was a clone in Prime 3. Dark Samus.
ReplyDeleteTHEN WHO WAS TROOPER
ReplyDeleteL. O. Fucking L.
ReplyDeleteSaw it coming from the third sentence
ReplyDeleteA few different patch sizes,sandpaper[url=http://www.icarbonsports.com/products/wheels-rims/carbon-bike-rims/]carbon fiber rims[/url] or a metal scraper, and a tube of glue), a set of tire levers, and an air pump.
ReplyDeleteInspect Tire
With the wheel removed from your bike, inspect ICAbike01 the outer ICAbike01 surface of the tire to make sure there are no sharp objects like a thumb-tack or thorn stuck in the tread.
Remove Tir
Remove the valve cap and fully deflate the tube by[url=http://www.icarbonsports.com/products/wheels-rims/carbon-bike-rims/]carbon bike rims[/url] depressing the valve stem with the hooked end of your tire lever. There are two main types of valve stems, a schrader valve and a presta valve. This tutorial is based on a schrader valve, but I will be covering the different valve types in another tutorial.
Now it’s time to remove your tire, one side at a time. Choose a section of tire that is away from the valve and hook one of the tire levers under the bead, directly in line with one of your spokes. Pry one side of the tire bead over the edge of the rim, and then hook the end of the tire lever to the nearest spoke. Insert another tire lever two spokes away from the first, and a third another two spokes away. Now the middle lever should fall out, and you can continue the process. When the tire is loose enough you can just run a tire lever around the rest of the rim to pull the whole side over.
After you have removed one side of the tire, the other side should come off very easily.
Inspect Tube
Now remove the tube from the tire, and try to keep [url=http://www.icarbonsports.com/products/wheels-rims/carbon-bike-rims/]carbon bicycle rims[/url]track of where it was positioned in relation to the tire. Inflate the tube to approximately twice its original size. This will expand the hole making it easier to find.
Listen carefully to the entire circumferenceof the tube; you should hear a hissing sound that will indicate where the leak is. As a last resort you can submerge the tube in water and watch for bubbles, but you’ll want to avoid doing this as you’ll need the tube to be completely dry in order for the patch glue to work.
Once you’ve found the leak, take note of whether it is on the inner or outer side of the tube.
If the hole was on the outer side of the tube, inspect the inner surface of the tire in that spot to make sure the object that caused the puncture is not still stuck in the tire. Double check the entire inner side of the tire by running your fingers along the entire surface, feeling for obstacles along the way.
If the hole was on the inner side of the tube,inspect your[url=http://www.icarbonsports.com/]zipp 404[/url]entire rim to make sure there are no sharp burrs in the metal, and that the rim tape is properly protecting the tube from your spoke ends.
Now that the rim and tire are clear, it’s time to patch the tube. Select an appropriate sized patch for the hole. Use the sandpaper or scraper provided in your kit to buff the surface of the tube for an area a bit larger than the patch. You need to buff the tube so that it is no longer shiny. If the molding line is running along the area where the patch is to be applied, you must sand it down completely, or it will provide an air channel. Once buffed, avoid touching that area with your fingers.
Apply a dab of rubber cement, and then spread it into a thin coat, using your cleanest finger. Work quickly. You want a thin, smooth coat of cement; if you keep fiddling with it as it begins to dry, you’ll risk making it lumpy. The thinner the cement, the faster it will dry. It is very important to allow the cement to dry completely.
Peel the foil from the patch and press the patch onto the tube firmly, squeezing the patch tightly onto the tube.
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